The eyes are often considered the focal point of any makeup look, but the one-size-fits-all approach rarely yields optimal results. Understanding how to customize eye makeup techniques for different eye shapes is what separates amateur application from professional artistry. As a makeup artist specializing in editorial work, I've developed targeted strategies for enhancing various eye shapes to create balanced, flattering looks that honor each client's unique features.

In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore the characteristics of different eye shapes and the specific techniques that work best for each one. Whether you're a makeup enthusiast looking to refine your personal routine or a professional artist seeking to expand your skills, these tailored approaches will help you create eye-enhancing looks with precision and confidence.

Identifying Eye Shapes: The Foundation of Customized Application

Before diving into specific techniques, it's essential to accurately identify the eye shape you're working with. While many people have combination shapes, most eyes fall predominantly into one of these categories:

Common Eye Shapes

  • Almond Eyes: Symmetrically oval-shaped with a slight upward tilt at the outer corners; the iris is partially covered by the upper and lower lids
  • Round Eyes: The whites of the eye are visible all around the iris; the eye appears more circular than oval
  • Hooded Eyes: A fold of skin hangs over the crease, partially or completely hiding the mobile lid when the eyes are open
  • Monolid Eyes: Little to no visible crease with a flatter appearance across the eye area
  • Downturned Eyes: The outer corners appear to tilt downward
  • Upturned Eyes: The outer corners tilt noticeably upward
  • Deep-Set Eyes: Set deeper into the skull with a pronounced brow bone that casts shadow
  • Protruding Eyes: Appear to bulge slightly forward from the eye socket
  • Close-Set Eyes: The space between the eyes is less than the width of one eye
  • Wide-Set Eyes: The space between the eyes is greater than the width of one eye

To determine your client's predominant eye shape, examine their eyes straight-on with a neutral expression in good lighting. Take note of where shadows naturally fall and how much of the lid is visible when the eyes are open.

Almond Eyes: Enhancing the Natural Balance

Almond eyes are often considered the "standard" against which most makeup tutorials are created. They feature a natural balance that can be enhanced with various techniques.

Key Characteristics

  • Visible crease when eyes are open
  • Iris is partially covered by upper and lower lids
  • Slight upward tilt at the outer corners

Optimal Techniques

  • Eyeshadow Placement: The classic gradient from light to dark works beautifully—lightest shade on the lid, medium in the crease, and darkest at the outer corner
  • Eyeliner: Almost any liner style complements this shape; try a thin line along the upper lash line that gradually thickens toward the outer corner
  • Mascara Focus: Even application on both upper and lower lashes

Almond eyes can carry both subtle and dramatic looks with equal effectiveness. For editorial impact, extend shadow slightly beyond the outer corner in a soft wing shape.

Round Eyes: Creating Definition and Elongation

Round eyes appear larger and more open, with whites of the eye visible all around the iris. Makeup for round eyes typically focuses on creating the illusion of elongation.

Key Characteristics

  • Circular appearance rather than oval
  • Whites of the eye visible above and below the iris
  • Little to no natural tilt at the corners

Optimal Techniques

  • Eyeshadow Placement: Focus darker shades on the outer third of the eye, extending slightly outward and upward to create an elongated effect
  • Eyeliner: Thicken the liner as it reaches the outer corner and extend it slightly upward; consider leaving the inner corner without liner
  • Mascara Focus: Concentrate on the outer lashes, using less product on the center and inner lashes to create an elongated appearance
  • Lower Lash Line: Apply a dark shadow or liner to the outer third only, leaving the inner part bare to avoid emphasizing roundness

Avoid placing dark colors in the center of the lid, as this can enhance the round appearance. Instead, use a gradient that gets progressively darker toward the outer corner.

Hooded Eyes: Creating Depth and Visibility

Hooded eyes feature a fold of skin that drapes over the crease, partially or completely hiding the mobile lid when the eyes are open. This shape requires specific techniques to create the illusion of more visible lid space.

Key Characteristics

  • Fold of skin covers part or all of the mobile lid when eyes are open
  • Crease may appear to be missing or set very close to the lash line
  • Makeup on the mobile lid often disappears when the eyes are open

Optimal Techniques

  • Eyeshadow Placement: Apply with eyes open to accurately see where colors will be visible; create a "faux crease" slightly above the natural crease
  • Shadow Strategy: Use matte shades that recede, placing darker colors above the natural crease where they'll be visible with open eyes
  • Eyeliner: Opt for a thin line that thickens at the outer corner, keeping as close to the lash line as possible to maximize lid space
  • Highlighting: Focus highlighting on the inner corner and brow bone to create dimension
  • Smudge-Proof Products: Use long-wearing, transfer-resistant formulas to prevent shadow and liner from transferring to the hood

For clients with hooded eyes, demonstrate how to apply makeup with eyes open and relaxed rather than closed or raised, as this provides a more accurate representation of how the final look will appear.

Monolid Eyes: Creating Dimension Without a Visible Crease

Monolid eyes have little to no visible crease, creating a flatter appearance across the eye area. This eye shape offers a perfect canvas for graphic liner looks and creative color placement.

Key Characteristics

  • Little to no visible crease
  • Flat appearance from lash line to brow
  • Sometimes accompanied by an epicanthic fold (skin fold of the inner corner)

Optimal Techniques

  • Eyeshadow Placement: Create a gradient effect with the darkest shade near the lash line, gradually blending upward and outward
  • Dimension Creation: Use strategically placed highlighting on the center of the lid and inner corner to create the illusion of depth
  • Eyeliner: A slightly thicker line is often more visible; consider a "floating liner" technique where the line is visible above the lash line when eyes are open
  • Winged Liner: Extended wings can create beautiful elongation; ensure the wing is positioned to be visible with open eyes
  • Lash Focus: Individual lashes or wispy strip lashes at the outer corners add dimension without overwhelming the eye

Monolid makeup should embrace the unique canvas rather than attempting to create a Western-style crease. Some of the most striking editorial looks are designed specifically for monolids.

Downturned Eyes: Creating Lift and Balance

Downturned eyes have outer corners that tilt slightly downward, creating a gentle, soft appearance. Makeup for this eye shape focuses on creating subtle lift.

Key Characteristics

  • Outer corners appear to tilt downward
  • The downward slope can sometimes create a slightly sad or tired appearance

Optimal Techniques

  • Eyeshadow Placement: Focus darker shades on the outer corner, blending upward at a 45-degree angle toward the end of the eyebrow
  • Eyeliner Strategy: Keep the line thin at the inner corner, gradually thickening as it moves outward, with a subtle upward flick that counters the downward tilt
  • Lower Lash Line: Keep the lower lash line softer, with any shadow or liner stopping short of the outer corner to avoid emphasizing the downward slope
  • Highlighting: Highlight directly beneath the arch of the eyebrow to draw attention upward

Avoid extending shadow or liner downward at the outer corner, as this will accentuate the downturned appearance. Instead, all elements should have an upward trajectory.

Upturned Eyes: Enhancing the Natural Lift

Upturned eyes feature outer corners that tilt noticeably upward, creating a naturally lifted appearance that can be further enhanced with strategic makeup placement.

Key Characteristics

  • Outer corners sit higher than inner corners
  • Natural "cat-eye" effect even without makeup

Optimal Techniques

  • Eyeshadow Placement: Enhance the natural lift by focusing darker shades at the outer corner, blending upward and outward
  • Eyeliner: Follow the natural upward tilt, extending the line slightly for an enhanced cat-eye effect
  • Balance Strategy: Add definition to the lower lash line at the outer corner to maintain proportional balance

Upturned eyes naturally carry dramatic winged liner and fox-eye looks beautifully. For softer looks, use the natural tilt as a guide for gentle shadow placement.

Deep-Set Eyes: Bringing Forward and Illuminating

Deep-set eyes sit farther back in the eye socket, with a prominent brow bone that often casts shadow. Makeup for this eye shape focuses on bringing the eyes forward and illuminating the lid space.

Key Characteristics

  • Set deeper into the skull
  • Pronounced brow bone that casts natural shadow
  • Crease may appear more defined

Optimal Techniques

  • Eyeshadow Palette: Favor light to medium shades on the lid to bring the eyes forward
  • Highlighting: Use illuminating shades on the center of the lid and inner corner to create the illusion of projection
  • Crease Definition: Keep crease color soft and diffused to avoid creating additional depth
  • Eyeliner: A thin to medium line along the upper lash line adds definition without creating more depth
  • Brow Bone: Avoid heavy highlighting on the brow bone, as this can emphasize how deep-set the eyes are

The key is to use lighter colors to bring features forward and avoid adding too much darkness that could make the eyes appear to recede further.

Protruding Eyes: Creating Balance and Definition

Protruding eyes appear to project slightly forward from the eye socket, creating a prominent, open appearance. Makeup for this eye shape focuses on creating balanced definition without overwhelming the natural projection.

Key Characteristics

  • Eyes appear to bulge slightly forward
  • More lid space is typically visible
  • The whites of the eyes may be more visible

Optimal Techniques

  • Eyeshadow Placement: Use matte medium to dark shades across the lid to visually recede the projection
  • Avoid Shimmer: Limit shimmery or metallic shadows on the center of the lid, as they can emphasize projection
  • Eyeliner: A slightly thicker line along both upper and lower lash lines helps frame and define the eyes
  • Shadow Extension: Extend shadow slightly beyond the outer corner for a widening effect that balances projection

Creating a soft smoky effect often works beautifully for protruding eyes, as it adds definition while optically reducing projection.

Close-Set Eyes: Creating Width and Space

Close-set eyes have less than one eye-width of space between them. Makeup for this eye shape focuses on creating the illusion of greater distance between the eyes.

Key Characteristics

  • Less than one eye-width of space between the eyes
  • Bridge of the nose may appear narrower

Optimal Techniques

  • Inner Corner Strategy: Keep the inner third of the eye light and bright to create the illusion of more space
  • Eyeshadow Placement: Focus darker colors on the outer two-thirds of the lid, extending outward rather than inward
  • Eyeliner: Start liner from the middle of the eye outward, avoiding the inner corner entirely
  • Highlighting: Apply a light, reflective highlight to the inner corner and beginning of the lid

Avoid dark colors or heavy liner in the inner corner, as this will make the eyes appear even closer together.

Wide-Set Eyes: Creating Central Focus

Wide-set eyes have more than one eye-width of space between them. Makeup for this eye shape focuses on creating the illusion of less distance between the eyes.

Key Characteristics

  • More than one eye-width of space between the eyes
  • Bridge of the nose may appear wider

Optimal Techniques

  • Inner Corner Focus: Use deeper shades at the inner corner to visually reduce the space between the eyes
  • Eyeliner Strategy: Extend liner toward the inner corner, creating a slight thickening effect near the tear duct
  • Brow Approach: Shape brows with a slightly closer placement at the inner corners
  • Nose Contour: If doing full-face makeup, a subtle contour along the sides of the bridge of the nose can help create harmony

The goal is to create focus toward the center of the face, bringing the eyes into visual balance.

Universal Techniques for Eye Enhancement

While customized approaches yield the best results, certain techniques benefit nearly all eye shapes:

Curled Lashes

Curling eyelashes opens the eyes and creates lift regardless of eye shape. For maximum effect:

  • Position the curler at the base of the lashes
  • Gently squeeze and hold for 10-15 seconds
  • For additional curl, move the curler slightly outward and repeat

Tightlining

Applying eyeliner to the upper waterline (tightlining) creates the appearance of fuller lashes and defines the eyes without taking up precious lid space—beneficial for nearly all eye shapes, but especially for hooded and deep-set eyes.

Customized Lash Selection

False lashes should be selected based on eye shape:

  • Round eyes benefit from lashes that are longer at the outer corners
  • Downturned eyes look best with lashes that are fuller in the center and outer corners
  • Hooded eyes require shorter lash length to avoid brushing against the brow bone
  • Wide-set eyes benefit from lashes that are fuller at the inner corners

Professional Application Tips

Observation Before Application

Take time to observe your client's eyes with a relaxed expression before beginning application. Note:

  • Where shadows naturally fall
  • How much lid space is visible with eyes open
  • The natural tilt of the eyes
  • Whether one eye differs slightly from the other (asymmetry is common)

Customizing for Asymmetry

Most people have some asymmetry between their eyes. To address this:

  • Adapt techniques slightly for each eye to create balance
  • Use slightly more product or different placement on one eye if needed
  • Check your work with the client's eyes open throughout the application

Combination Approaches

Many clients have combination eye shapes (e.g., hooded and downturned, or monolid and wide-set). In these cases:

  • Prioritize techniques for the most prominent characteristic
  • Incorporate supporting techniques for secondary characteristics
  • Develop a customized approach that addresses the unique combination

Client Education

As professional makeup artists, part of our value lies in educating clients about their unique features. Consider:

  • Using a mirror to demonstrate techniques the client can replicate at home
  • Explaining why certain placements work best for their specific eye shape
  • Recommending product types and tools that will help them achieve similar results independently

Final Thoughts

Understanding eye shapes is a fundamental skill for any makeup artist, but the true artistry lies in how you adapt these principles to each unique face. While these guidelines provide a framework, remember that makeup is ultimately about enhancing individual beauty rather than strictly following rules.

As you develop your eye for customization, you'll find yourself instinctively knowing which techniques will work best for each client—creating looks that not only flatter their natural features but also align with their personal style and the specific occasion.

The most successful eye makeup balances technical skill with artistic vision, resulting in enhanced features that appear harmonious with the rest of the face. Master these customized techniques, and you'll elevate your artistry to a truly professional level.